Okinawans celebrate Obon holiday

  • Published
  • By Staff Sgt. Christopher Marasky
  • 18th Wing Public Affairs
KADENA AIR BASE, Japan --  Kadena's neighbors will soon be welcoming back the spirits of their ancestors during Obon.

The three-day holiday on Okinawa is a time for locals to pay homage to their ancestors by visiting the family's Buddhist altars and tombs.

"Ancestor worship is an important part of life here on Okinawa and in mainland Japan," said Keiko Toma, 18th Wing Public Affairs community relations specialist. "This is the one opportunity we get each year, and it's a very important festival to us."

On Okinawa, the dates for Obon vary from year to year unlike mainland Japan, where the dates are fixed, said Ms. Toma.

"Our Obon is different because it's based on the lunar calendar," she said. "Where they [mainland Japan] have set dates for Obon, ours change from year to year - this year's Obon will be Sept. 1-3."

Ever since Obon was first celebrated approximately 500 years ago, Okinawans have followed tradition and prayed, dined, sang and danced with the spirits of their ancestors during this annual event. The spirits are alerted to Obon's arrival by the cleaning of the tomb several days before the event begins. Family members gather at the tomb to clean it, letting the ancestors know they will soon be called forth to rejoin their family for a short visit.

"Obon is the time we welcome the spirits of our ancestors, and we celebrate this occasion to welcome and entertain them," said Ms. Toma. "We also show them our appreciation for protecting us."

Obon begins with "unkeh," when the family welcomes their ancestors' spirits into the house where the "butsudan," or altar, has been prepared, usually with incense and "ihai," a spirit tablet. On this first evening of Obon, families light candles or lanterns to lead the spirits home. As soon as darkness falls, family members stand at the front of the house to greet the spirits. Dinner that night will be a porridge-like dish called "jushi." The family eats this and offers it to the spirits of the dead.

Food, drinks and other offerings are placed in the butsudan to welcome the ancestors. Sake, fruit, tea, water, and flowers are typically among these offerings. On one side of the butsudan a bundle of 13 short pieces of sugar cane and a long, uncut cane are also offered. The long piece is used as a walking stick by the spirits as they leave the house and return to their tomb.

"During Obon, a lot of businesses will be closed, and many people will travel to be with their relatives," said Ayano Shimojo, Airman and Family Readiness Center cultural specialist. "But for Airmen who live off base, or go to the grocery stores downtown, you will see a lot of the special items that are purchased for Obon, and get a chance to see this unique part of Okinawan culture."

On the second day of Obon - "nakabi" - ancestors are offered three meals. Family members spend the day visiting with relatives and apologizing to the ancestors for not communicating with them in so long. They pray for forgiveness and protection and offer gifts to the spirits.

"Ukui" is the third and final day of obon. After a sumptuous farewell dinner, the spirits return to their tomb. This meal is the high point of the entire celebration and is carefully prepared and placed in a special box called a "jyubako." The jyubako will be placed before the ihai or butsudan along with sake, tea, and other special foods. While cooking the many delicacies of this meal, families also prepare the "minnuku," a special meal made up of scraps of food or grass that's given to any bad spirits or homeless, floating spirits who the ancestors might meet on the way to the tomb.

"Uchikabi," money made of paper and stamped with the shape of a coin by a hammer and iron mold, is placed on the jyubako to ensure that the ancestors will have no needs as they return to the other world. Most offerings are made in pairs or in a package. Countable foods are always given in odd numbers.

When everything is arranged for the feast, family members gather in front of the butsudan and incense is burned. The family gives thanks for their good health and prays for the safety, happiness, and prosperity of the family in the year to come.

After the meal, men sing and play the "samisen," an instrument similar to a banjo, made of snakeskin. Just before midnight the ancestral spirits are sent off. The paper money is burned by the head of the family and his sons. They pour sake and tea on the ashes then carry souvenir foods and the minnuku to the gate and place them on the ground. They pray so the spirits can return to the tomb safely and come back again the next year. This prayer marks the end of Obon and the beginning of the Obon dance or "Eisa."

"Throughout Obon, there will be Eisa dancers and celebrating here on Okinawa," said Ms. Shimojo. "People will be having a good time with their families, and dancing may last late into the evening."

Due to families visiting one another, travel will be virtually impossible just before, during and after Obon. Airmen are reminded to plan accordingly during this important local festival.